Pool Light Accessories

Accessories for LED pool lights

In a swimming pool, the part that fails is almost never the LED: it's the gasket, the connector or a joint that was badly sealed. Pool light accessories are the pieces that make an installation work on day one and keep working into its third summer. Here you'll find the PAR56 housing, the IP68 waterproof connectors and the remotes and controllers that run the light.

The housing: the shell that stays in the structure

The PAR56 housing is the recessed shell concreted into the pool wall that holds the lamp. It is the part you never change: it fixes for good the light format you'll be able to fit, which is why it should be chosen alongside the lamp and not afterwards. If you are building the pool or refurbishing the shell, that is the moment to decide, and the only one.

IP68 waterproof connectors: where installations are lost

The join between the lamp cable and the run back to the transformer is the critical point of the whole installation. A splice taped up inside a damp chamber ends in corrosion and failure. IP68 waterproof connectors solve that join with sealing certified for immersion: they come in T, I and X shapes depending on whether you need to branch off, splice in line or feed several points, and there is also a 12V-24V waterproof connector cable with the male-female connection already fitted. Choosing the connector to match the shape of your wiring layout, rather than whatever is to hand, is what separates an installation that lasts from one that causes trouble.

Remotes and controllers for colour light

RGB lamps need something to tell them what to do. The controller is installed dry, outside the pool, between the transformer and the lamp, and turns the remote's command into a colour change or a sequence. The remote control is the part you handle yourself. Both are also sold separately: if you have lost the remote or the controller has failed, there is no need to replace the lights.

What to check before buying

Three checks head off almost every mistake. Voltage: submerged lighting runs at 12 V and the accessories have to follow suit. Format: if your light is PAR56, the housing has to be PAR56 too. And the cross-section of the cable you already have run, because the connector must accept it; forcing a thick cable into a small connector ruins the seal, which is exactly what you came to buy.

Send us your layout and we'll tell you which parts you need

If you are wiring an installation from scratch or repairing one that keeps failing, write to us with the number of lights, the distance to the panel and the transformer voltage. We'll tell you which connectors you need and how many, and confirm availability.

Frequently asked questions

Can I splice the lamp cable with insulating tape?

It isn't advisable anywhere in a pool installation, not even out of the water. Damp and airborne chlorine attack the splice and eventually cause corrosion and failure. That is what IP68 waterproof connectors are for.

Will any housing suit my lamp?

No: the format has to match. A PAR56 housing takes PAR56 lamps. If the housing is already concreted in, it is the lamp that has to fit it, not the other way round.

Where is the controller installed?

Always outside the pool and in a dry area, next to the transformer. Only the lamp and its cable go in the water.

Which connector do I choose, T, I or X?

By the shape of the join: I to splice two cables in line, T to take a branch off the main run, and X to feed several points from a single node. Sketch your layout before ordering and you'll know exactly how many of each you need.